Anyone who knows their food and drink also knows that north London already has its fair share of gastropubs.
So was it wise for the owners of this joint, who also own The Redchurch Bar and café and Green & Red in the capital’s east End, to open yet another one?
They say:
Time Out: "The Marquess Tavern stakes its claim by virtue of its warmth and the strength of its menu.”
The Independent on Sunday: “The Marquess definitely has the right bones and the right ambitions. Now it just needs a touch of greatness, and it will be as hard to get into as my local local.”
We say:
What I so striking about this establishment is the imposing cream coloured building which stands amongst both a residential area and some gorgeous greenery.
The second thing which hits you is how resolutely British this pub is. There are practically no overtures to modernity, hardly any wonder then to learn that the dining room is part of a converted church.
If one didn’t know any better, the interior is almost spooky in its feel of a bygone era. There’s even an old fashioned chandelier hanging from the skylight.
Where it does leave you in two minds is in its daily changing menu, which also veers towards the traditional British.
Chicken liver pate with cornichons (£6) was just too meaty tasting for its own good while a main of whole bream with sturdy Jersey Royals and samphire. Why not fillet the damn fish?
Potted salmon with dill and pickled cucumber (£6) is certainly sharp, but then the beef and girrole pie (£12) is not only pricey, but unearths unappetising and none too flavoursome chunks of beef under a thin flaky layer of pastry. Puds such as raspberry fool (£5) served in a wine glass works to much better effect.
Where the pub really delivers is in its drinks. There’s a diverting selection of global wines though even better is an extensive list of beers, real ales and interesting imports.
North London trendies can rest assured they have a good one in their midst, as for the rest of us, well, the metropolis is full of fine gastropubs.
ADDRESS
32 Canonbury Street
London N1
tel, 020 7354 2975
POSTED...
Sat 5 Aug 2006 at 6:47pm
